Crossbows are very dangerous weapons, you can lose an eye / egg / tooth. Use it with care and responsibility!
The crossbow is divided in
1). Corps Crossbow
2). Arco (also called blades or rods)
4). Firing mechanism.
5). Darts / Arrows
a). piece of hard wood with no knots or cracks, thickness 70cm long x 5cm wide x7cm
b). Elastic Fiat 600 (all other similar sized serves, even one plane)
c). Waxed Nylon: 5 meters. Nylon: 15 meters twine: 20 meters
d). springs several
e). screws, nuts several that’ll show.
f). To the firing mechanism we use steel pieces or may get yourselves manufactured.
The initial cut of the crossbow body gives basic forms: The grip, the butt, the trigger mechanism housing and socket housing elastic. First of all we have to correct well the four principal planes of the timber and precisely mark the longitudinal central axes of each of the sides.
Maintaining the thickness of 7cm from the beginning to about 23 cm, there gradually reduced to 4 cm. The thickness of 4 cm with reference starts from the beginning about 26/27 cm.
Before coming to the butt, about 5 cm, cut diagonally back to maintain a support surface in man a little wider.
If we give way to fishtail better fit
then the elastic size accommodation. Is cut diagonally at an angle of 10 ° to the vertical axis, the elastic must fit inclined. Then size the socket, leaving 1cm up and down to ensure it does not move. As then cut off the elastic arched, straight cuts should not be made, but respect arch form, ie the housing timber, above, must be shaped and the
bottom ^ same but inverted. The tips of both cribs must be perfectly centered with respect to the horizontal central axis of the timber. To this elastic widest part between two 4.5cm cribs is nevertheless vary measure well as cutting the elastic is made. If cutting the elastic in the middle is right, you can avoid this complication.
Finally practiced where the hole will be housed the trigger mechanism. This starts counting at 28 cm above the top of the clip, has a width of 1.5cm and a length of 4.5 cm. With a 10mm wick make 4 holes side by side (top to bottom) and finished with shaping wood rasp and file.
if you want you can carve the handle area for a “perfect fit” according to the hand of each
Finally slot is the fit of the dart. This should be almost semi-cylindrical and have a radius of less than 1mm caliber of darts that we will use. As here use darts 10mm diameter, then the depth of the groove will of 9m. This is so that the feathers gently support the remaining area of the body of the crossbow without much resistance when triggered
Here is a picture of a more advanced stage of the time because I have not taken.
I did exactly the slot on the upper longitudinal central axis of the body of the crossbow. First I was doing a crappy grooves on je and with a gouge was taking wood gently rounded. The completed winding wood grain sandpaper 50 or 60 about an axis passing 8mm and repeatedly for cylindrical fits me. Then move `, of course, finer grain sandpaper.
Arc or VERGAS.
It is really the easiest part of building. The elastic fiat 600 has a central opening that will allow us to fit it exactly in the center without having to pierce. It also has two additional bends gaskets we will leave a touch additional beauty
Dialing from the center to the ends of the elastic cut into ovoid, up to 2 c of the ends. These points should be 2 cm long and 1 cm wide. Torch are heated and bent smoothly toward the outer side of the curvature (ie toward where would the arrow). Whoever is canchero with mild or have facilities to temper a blade so long, you can do well, if they have those comforts, is cut with sensitive steadily adding water to lift the blade temperature. I did that and I avoided that steel loses its bending properties. It is all something like this:
And that’s it. Others say it is pro sanding, oiling etc etc are also part of the process.
The rope will be an endless, whose length eyelet to eyelet must be exactly (or a few millimeters less) the distance from tip to tip. When placing the arc will bend enough to pass the rope between the tips and taut.
For this to be used as one gadget this (easy to construct) in which the rope holding sticks so that it can rotate gimped yarn ends.
give eight laps of waxed nylon, tie one end and began to twisted outer loops (should be about 5cm perimeter) and in the center, about 6 cm entorchamos (3cm each side of center). The wound is made with nylon yarn simple, no waxing. It is very easy but complex to explain here I pass the link where an arc rope is the same but a lot shorter.
I found another way to make a string:
Except that once it is made, before the wound center, we twist it about 20 laps in clockwise clock ppor That’s why when we calculate the length of the string, we give about 3 or 4 cm more. If we still have a long twisting, twisting we (do avoid loops) until the exact length, nothing happens.
Of course, if they get dacron or fastfligth and cord for archery serving you better with the materials that I have indicated, however waxed nylon and nylon cost 2 handles and are available in any harness.
To protect the socket of the cord with the tips (which are perfectly sanded and polished) cut a piece of leather into a triangle and placed in type this:
Not take into account that rope because it was used for initial tests and was made to chamamé
For this we will use darts crossbow 10mm diameter. They can serve smooth white wooden anchors sold in Easy or carpentry. The dart should be the length of the chute we had done before and about 2 or 3 cm, including the length of the tip that if hunting will be longer than the practice. Cut the dowel darts selecting parts absolutely straight. Lsa that we can correct half bent gently heating the wood and straightening his hands, takes practice.
We got a goose, we removed tail feathers (straight (instead of the wing), cut the persimmons by Mitas, sanded perfectly (the spine should be less than an inch thick) and then cut a long feathers of 5-7 cm and a width of 1.5 cm. We hit two of them perfectly equidistant and as straight as possible, within 2 cm of the “head” of the dart. stuck with the droplet and there will be no problems. If you want s can gimped yarn front and rear ends of the spine for a perfect fit.
To make practical tips to use a steel cylinder 10 mm in diameter. We give the same heat treatment as the knife blades while the tempering is not required.
Will cut into pieces of 2.5 cm,
With Cheeser proceed to carve bank within a depth of 1.5 cm starting with finite wicks wick up to 9m. the wall should be less than 1mm thick
With grinder put the tip of a stem smaller and we gently arched shaping,
Thus remain after
Then with a big pencil sharpener or grinder, we will use anchors ahusamos darting to accommodate the tip, stick with Poxipol all cavity filling and sanding. There should be a step between dart and tip.
This is definitely the hardest part of all.
The trigger mechanism to conceptually understand what should have 3 parts:
a. part that holds the string when the crossbow is armed,
b. one rope portion released in the moment of firing
c. a part which returns the mechanism to its original position.
This crossbow has a trigger mechanism made with a “trigger” of FAL, another component of that rifle called guarantor, and a spring. They are placed as in the original weapon. The guarantor is very smoothed to enter into a hole that is the trigger, and the pressure spring is inserted into the wooden body and strain on the front of the trigger. Accordingly to release the string must not pull the “trigger” like a gun, but push forward. This came after many, many tests looking for a solution to the problem of the mechanism, and this had on hand.
Are the modified parts are original and made to see
Here are the pieces presented as they would in the spring and we can see how the pieces would be when the crossbow is armed with rope that is tensioned ready to shoot.
And this would be the approximate position remaining parts after shooting
The guarantor (top) the return to his position with his finger, as if to hammer a revolver, while the shutter does through the spring and helps release not alone when arming the rope.
ACA we see the mechanism installed from above, come washers are to meet the distance differences that I produced with the file and prevents it from moving sideways, but must be well lubricated just fine, ie move sense trigger free but not displaced laterally.)
This is the view of the firing mechanism from the side:
The screws are hard to get but are threaded only at tip from head to coming out the other side of the wood is smooth, this facilitates the free movement of the trigger. I used the ones that had a chance of folding camping table that broke me. The third hole passes a single wire that aims to curb the guarantor to not go back.
This will place the trigger has to be of such precision that nothing can damage it with anything, if you look there is a hole that is clogged near the screw down, the error was 2 mm and mechanism will not work. So was bored at first.
Here I step trigger levels, those who want to expand but ask, because to be a shot done intuitively, making a more laborious explanation becomes impossible.
Once we have the body of the crossbow, the trigger system installed, we sand and polish the Fulfil ouch we like it, proceed to install the body of the crossbow. We drilled a hole exactly centered at the intersection of the axes on the socket side of the arc and the arc present look with a screw corkscrew wood about 2.5 cm long, it takes a washer and a safe grover.
Then started to insure the arc with a few turns of twine as shown in the photos, capped and set either to prevent the arc from moving sideways or exit, if the screw has lost adhesion. It also gives a visual look very cute and very medieval.
And finally, in the hole that is left of the hole, had a braided twine that will be used as steps, placing your foot to help stretch the arch and build the string.
You already have your crossbow finished, enjoy!